Refined maturity, but with plenty of vivacity. After the first whiff of sweet-scented antique oak, flavors of cherry pie, bubble gum, banana flan, honeyed vanilla, and maple syrup emerge, all tempered by rich herbs and mature oak. A formidable structure allows it to hold water ably, and brings out apple pie and blackberry tart against wood and spice, with a graceful, restrained oak influence.

Reviewed by: David Fleming (Fall 2021)